First launched in 1983, the Vacheron Constantin reference 43031 was one of the pieces that helped renew the interest in complicated watchmaking, following the decimation caused by the Quartz Crisis. This piece features an unusual champagne dial and an integrated bracelet, lending it a vintage aesthetic.

One of the few ultra-thin, automatic perpetual calendars put forth by the Holy Trinity, this Vacheron Constantin reference 43031 possesses a significant history and is an excellent example of the combination of modern and traditional elements that characterises the neo-vintage period.

Over the years, the reference 43031 has been produced in a variety of dial, metal, and bracelet configurations, and these pieces are a testament to the brand’s successful weathering of the Quartz Crisis, helping revive public interest in complicated watchmaking. After a successful run, the reference was discontinued in 2002, to make way for the manufacture’s contemporary pieces.

While most examples of the reference 43031 feature a white opaline dial, this particular piece has a delicate champagne dial that provides a neo-vintage touch when combined with the yellow-gold case. Of course, collectors of vintage pieces will be familiar with the unique appeal of a “tone on tone” watch, where the dial and case subtly complement one another, a feature which certainly makes this piece stand out. These champagne toned dials are also particularly rare within the reference 43031, as is the case with other perpetual calendars from the period, such as those by Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.

Further to this, the watch is also fitted with an intricate integrated bracelet that is directly attached to the case itself, giving the watch a simple silhouette. Whilst integrated bracelet sports watches have become particularly sought after today, this watch is a wonderful reminder of what a more classic take on the idea can look like, and just how impactful it can be when combined with a venerable complication like the perpetual calendar.

Within the watch, Vacheron Constantin used the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, which was the thinnest automatic movement in the world when it came out in 1967. They then reworked a perpetual calendar module from Dubois-Depraz, a famed module manufacturer who has supplied Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, among others. The end result was the Caliber 1120 QP, which still remains in production to this day, albeit in an updated form.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar 43031 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Vacheron Constantin 43031 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear, most notably on the bezel. The hallmarks and case serial number engraved on the caseback are deep and clearly defined. The bracelet is excellently preserved, with minimal stretch and clearly defined hallmarks on the buckle. The bracelet has 22 links, excluding the end links attached to the clasp and directly to the case. The links would require specialist intervention by a jeweller or watchmaker to be removed and fitted to a different size. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.